Trastevere

Trastevere ('across the Tiber') kept a working-class, insular character for centuries, separate enough from central Rome to develop its own dialect and traditions, and that slightly separate feel survives in its tangle of narrow, ochre-walled streets. Santa Maria in Trastevere, one of Rome's oldest churches, anchors a piazza that fills with students, tourists, and street musicians by evening. Ivy and laundry lines hang over cobblestones barely wide enough for a Vespa, and the neighbourhood's density of trattorias and bars makes it the city's favourite spot for a long dinner or a late night out. It's at its most atmospheric after dark, once the day-trip crowds thin out.